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(Originally published in the Spring 1998 issue of Total Embellishment Newsletter.)
My jacket was inspired by a similar one which sold for $350 at an upscale department store. The ready-to-wear version was unlined and uninterfaced. At first I thought "how poorly constructed" but then I thought "how smart!" As a fashion-sewer I tend to construct a garment the traditional way, just because I was taught to do so and the pattern instructions tell me to. But the ready-to-wear industry is always looking for a shortcut and an easier way to achieve the look without the work. I've worn this jacket a number of times and it is comfortable over my sweater and has held up very well. Make it with short sleeves for summer or long sleeves for fall and winter.
My red and black color scheme is striking, but choose two of your favorite contrasting colors of melton cloth remnants and UltraSuede©.
Ready, Set, Go......
1. Choose a sturdy fabric like melton cloth, wool flannel, corduroy or denim. If you have sensitive skin, think about lining your jacket.
2. Cut the jacket front and back from one color of fabric and cut the sleeves from a contrasting fabric.
3. Trim the seam allowance to the stitching line around the neckline only. The other seam allowances are left intact and bound. The untrimmed center front seam allowance creates a slightly overlapping, asymmetrical look. The jacket hemline will be bound so leave it untrimmed unless you wish to shorten the jacket.
4. Fit the jacket and make necessary changes.
5. Trace the embellishment designs from pattern #016 onto fusible web paper backing.
6. Position the fusible web over the appropriate color of UltraSuede and press into place.
7. Cut the Ultra Suede pieces and peel away the fusible web paper.
8. Position the prepared pieces on the jacket and press to secure.
9. Stitch around each piece to appliqué.
10. Join the 1"-wide UltraSuede strips together, then bind the jacket edges.
Tips for using UltraSuede as a binding:
Generally UltraSuede strips are cut on the crossgrain and like all fabrics, the crossgrain is less stable and tends to stretch more. This characteristic makes is necessary to stretch the UltraSuede slightly as you apply it. You'll need to practice binding an edge to gain the feel and begin stretching the fabric just enough, but not too much.
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