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Perfect Round Patch Pockets

By Jan Bones, Excellence in Sewing


The following is one of the great techniques from the Perfect Pockets
book by Jan Bones.

1. Select the pocket pattern. Make the cardboard shaper. To make the cardboard shaper, lay the pocket pattern over a piece of plain cardboard, mark out the finished pocket size with a dressmakers wheel, and cut out the shape created. Cut two pockets in the selected fashion fabric. Stitch a row of machine basting around the two rounded corners of the pocket using a .6cm (1/4") seam. Place the cardboard shaper on the wrong side of the pocket, allowing the correct seams and facing areas to extend past the shaper. Straight pins may be used to hold the shaper to the fabric.

Patch Pockets

Patch Pockets

Fold the pocket seams over the edge of the shaper and press with an iron. For the curved areas. pull the machine basting to control and pull in the extra fabric. In the area of the facing, pull the fabric over slightly more than the seam width. This will ensure the facing will not show when the pocket is completed.
Patch Pockets
Fold the facing over the shaper and press. Give the entire seam area a final press. Check the beautiful pocket shape from the right side! Remove the pins and do a very light touch up pressing from the right side if needed. (a pressing cloth will prevent shine) Remove the cardboard shaper. The seam allowances may by trimmed to remove bulk and fraying threads. The seam allowance in the facing area may be trimmed to remove as much bulk as is appropriate for the fabric. Now use the same shaper to create the second perfect pocket.


IDEA: Keep the cardboard shaper and the pocket pattern together for use at a future time.

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