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Londa's 2 Cents Worth
Retro Jacket -- No. 5102 Loes Hinse Design

Londa's Sewing 

This Retro Jacket is a great, simple quick-to-sew jacket that, I feel, has a lot if versatility in a wardrobe. I have made it twice: first in a fairly heavy wool boucle - to which I chose to add a full lining (instructions will be included below); second in a raw silk tweed. (When I pre-shrunk the silk tweed the raveling of the ends was so wonderful, that I inserted it into the collar edge from the patterns roll termination line around). I love them both! And, easily stitched them up in about 3 hours. I also see it made up in soft, drapey suit-weight jacquards and textures. The suggested fabrics span quite a variety of suggested weights as well. 

The unique thing about the jacket's design is the way the front seaming ends at the inner shoulder point. 

In general, besides the few improvements as cited below, I find the pattern drafting and directions pretty wonderful. A comparison of Pieces 1 and 2 reveal the good drafting to create the proper roll, fabric turn, etc. However, no interfacing is called for - not even mentioned, and I really feel the (upper) collar and center front needs some stabilization - for the long haul, and certainly to support the buttonholes. As with any jacket, bias cut interfacing in the hems will improve the hang and wear. Because the fronts are both double - thereby giving you four layers of fabric at the center fronts, do be careful and select a lighter than usual interfacing. 
Shoulder width is more than ample: read ahead to Step 20 and consider making this cutting adjustment as I did.

To Add Interfacing: 
I recommend a lightweight fusible interfacing.

•  Interface Piece 2: Front Facing/Upper Collar - doing so will actually interface and give stability to what turns into the Upper Collar and stabilize the buttonhole area at the same time. After fusing, be sure to re-check the pieces with the pattern pieces to assure the size has not changed. I find that fusing most often increases the size of the piece by stretching it. Take time to re-trim so that the fabric exactly matches the pattern pieces.

• Cut 21/2" bias strips and fuse to hem allowance. The extra �" will extend to the actual front, but will help create a nice roll at the lower hem edges. Pink this one edge if, after testing, the interfacing shows a line on the fabrics right side where it ends. 

REMEMBER: 3/8" SEAM ALLOWANCES!!!
The following comments follow the Guide Sheet steps.
Staystitch the back neck edge!!!!

1 & 2: Stitching center back, shoulder seams and side seams. Depending on fabric thickness, it would be perfectly acceptable to serge finish off the seam allowances together and press the seam one direction. 

The back shoulder seam is a bit longer than the front shoulder seam - and this is good, it takes the place of shoulder dart. When stitching, just place the back toward the feed dogs. The excess will naturally be eased in.

The center back seam and side seams are great places to tweek to fit as you desire - so consider stitching with a longer than normal stitch length first to check fit. (Doing this will make this first seam easier to rip out if necessary). 

3 through 10: Great directions - do just as it says. Whenever I press, I always do so from the inside or wrong side of the area, slightly exposing the "public side". Doing this in addition to the proper drafting of these pieces creates the perfect edges in the correct places. 

11: Stitching these front/collar units together along the raw edges will be ok for fabrics that are not very heavy. Otherwise, I would advise to stitch the Pieces 1 - Front/Under Collar pieces to the side fronts, right sides together. Then, finish the edge of the Pieces 2 - front Facing/Upper collar and tack down to the seam by hand inside, or even stitch in the ditch to attach from the outside later, after the hems are turned up in Step 16. 

13: Before pinning the collar to the jacket body clip back neck edge to stay stitching. Be sure to match up the notches to the shoulder seams. The last sentence of step 13 should read: This is the hem allowance of the jacket. 

20: Do not run a gather stitch on the sleeve head. Instead, ease it in with your fingers as sewing using Londa's Magic Sleeve Insertion technique. 

I mistakenly - both times - because I am a creature of habit, set in the sleeves with a 5/8" seam allowance. AND, I cut the armscye seam at my size up to the notch, then in the area above the notch on both Side Front and Back, I gradually cut into the smallest shoulder size - SO�the shoulder silhouette line on this pattern is obviously drafted plenty wide to begin with.

After stitching in the sleeve, trim down to �" in the area between notches under the arm. The remainder of the seam should press toward the sleeve. I additionally live to insert a Sleeve Head for a very professional-looking shoulder line. The set we have is from menswear, and each one can be cut in half - plenty long for women's wear. Sleeve heads go between the seam allowance and the outer sleeve. Stitch in by hand, being sure not to stretch, rather ease the length in somewhat. 

Consider lining just the sleeves -- even if you don't line the rest of the jacket. As always, for length, cut the lining to the finished length of the sleeve. Stitch separately, place wrong sides together and then do run a stitching line all around the lining armscye so that you can pull it up, turn in and hand stitch to the sleeve armscye seam. Press up 5/8" at the lower hem edge and slipstitch to the hem allowance to create the jump hem after hand hemming up the sleeve itself. 

23: Add hand hemming the jacket body and sleeves to this step! The bottom hem allowance is 1 �". Sleeve hem allowance is 2". 

Shoulder Pad Covering Instructions are good. Of course, if lining fully - covering will not be necessary. 

Lining:
1 5/8 yards of 45" lining is ample for all sizes. 
Cut Lining fabric of pieces 4, 5, 6, and 3. 
Fold up hem allowances and cut linings to that length. 

to order pattern 

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